Sunday, May 17, 2009

The Case is Finally Splitteded!!!!

The past two Saturdays i've been working on the engine.... ....
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The pistons come off by first removing the circlips... one on each side of the wrist pin...


Then put a socket on a long extention and slot it into and against the wrist pin.... then with a piece of wood i struck it to drive the pin out.... just enuff too remove the piston from the con rod..

After i removed all the pistons .... i noticed that one of pistons isnt the same as the rest.... hmmm it didnt have the same hump on the top.... (is that a bad thing) .... it didnt have the same arrow markings that point to the flywheel either.......





Ok.... well its decided then.... i will have to get new pistons......
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Now to remove the pulley...... Slot a big screw driver thru the pulley holds and brace it on the case.... then removed the bolt....




Only after removing the pulley can screws securing the pulley cowl be accesed....



After removing the pistons and wrapping the con rods with lots of paper...... i was confident enuff to carry the engine and turn it over upsidedown... This is so that i can remove the Pressure Relief Valve and Control Valve.... having the engine upsidedown also helped me to get finally remove those pesky screws that are securing the side cowling....

The Oil pressure sensor was easy and simple to remove....

So was the Oil Pump cover plate........

Check the oil pump and cover plate for ware.... if its heavily wore out ..... just add it to your growing list of parts to buy.



To remove the whole oil pump assembly you will need a specialized tool.... Otherwise you will just need to split the case slightly before wiggling off the for studs.... for now just remove the the oil pump gears.....


I better put a photo (as shown below) of where the Oil Pressure Relief Valve and Control Valve are........


Ok .... now to unbolt and remove all the Crankcase nuts...... then strike the case with a piece of wood and mallot till it splits at the Flywheel side.... This is when you can wiggle the Oil pump assembly off the studs....
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After that tilt the case on to the left side and wiggle the right side off.... if it still doesnt give.... un-tilt the engine and strike it again... tilt it and wiggle again.... for the love of money dont use a sharp object or place anything on the seams of the engine casing.... cos you will muck up your engine and you might as well trow it out and scrap it....



When you are taking the right side off .... four peices of errrrrr... #^&*(!!... i forgot the name lah... hmmm any if you see the photo below you can see 4 small round things will fall out.... so slowly do it so it does not fall out hard..... anyway i will update the correct name of those things later....

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TBC

15 comments:

Anonymous said...

LIFTERS!! thats what they are called...do you have to remove the flywheel by force before splitting the engine??

thank and cool blog,
chris

Pixelated Mo said...

yes they are called lifters :)

hmmm never thought about it but i believe you dont have to remove the flywheel to split the case.... but it is close to impossible to remove the flywheel from the crankshaft after splitting the case...

BTW the flywheel came off with ease when using the cheater pipe and L angle brace...

Thanks for stopping by Chris

Pixelated Mo said...

...oh ...and also... it was alot easier to split the case after removing the flywheel..

Anonymous said...

hey i managed to split the engine and left the flywheel on :) though its only half split cos i have to remove the cylinder heads..i need you help here, HOW IS THIS DONE?! lol i removed those circular springs (2 per cylinder) but now i cant seperate it from the conencting rod, i think i need to remove the cylinder pin, how is this done?
thanks again!

chris

Anonymous said...

ok, i read it and ill try it! thanks!

Anonymous said...

damn it, the bastard piston pins wont move! im trying the technique u used but they simply wont move! any help?
chris

Pixelated Mo said...

try lubricating the pin and surrounding area.... make sure to squirt in the small holes on the conrod where the pins are...

also make sure the socket ur using to strike the pin is big enuff and is sitting flush on the pin...

Anonymous said...

nope, it still wont move!! i read about a tchnique to use wich involves heating the cylinder with a propane torch and trying then since it will expand...
wish me luck!
chris

Pixelated Mo said...

Luck!!!

hey chris... tell us about your ride and where are you from...

Anonymous said...

hi,

im from the tiny island of malta in the centre of the med sea, europe.
i havent got a ride yet, just a vw beetle engine from 1964 that i purchased that i hope to get into running order. originally, i bought it hopeing to power a microlight which i would have build but then reality hit me lol...
im 17, can start driving next year and hope that a vw beetle will be mmy first car! looking out for one!
look what i had done: www.vw-plane.blogspot.com

what abt you?

Pixelated Mo said...

im impressed chris.... will check up on your updates...

well me...im a 'little' older than you... and im from Malaysia... its that country between Singapore and Thailand...

www.pixelatedmo.blogspot.com

for my pixelated life...

Anonymous said...

yes i split the case! i managed without the heating, just beating it reallyt hard.

i had to pry the case apart cos as it seemed, i had to remove the pulley before splitting the case, but its done now! i noticed that a ring (kind of large washer) is broken in two, it sits on the crankshaft..
but i still havent found the problem of the engine: no compression...

i noticed that 7/8 of the lifters were jammed, are they ment to just slide out with ease?? is the caouse of no compression?

thanks!

Pixelated Mo said...

was the engine running when you got it?

the lifters should slide.... it should not be jammed....

...and i am guessing that cracked ring is the crankshaft bearing.... the shaft wld probably be very unbalanced when running....

hmmmm....I guess any one of these problems would cause compression issues...

you will need to take measurements to check the wear and tear of both the shafts.... this im still learning to do.... will update when i find out

Pixelated Mo said...

Malaysian classic vw forum www.volksriders.com

International classic vw forum
www.thesamba.com

join these forums for added opinions and advise...

Anonymous said...

Hi,
I also found 3 domed and 1 flat piston in my 1300 - which cylinder was your flat one in? Mine was in cylinder 2.

Wonder whether this is a coincidence or factory fitment?